Fly season can feel like an endless battle. From March through October in many regions, horse owners watch their animals stomp, swish, and suffer through clouds of biting insects. While chemical sprays offer temporary relief, many owners are looking for natural alternatives that are safer for their horses, their families, and the environment.
The good news? You don't need to douse your horse in chemicals to win the war on flies. An integrated approach combining multiple natural strategies can dramatically reduce fly populations and keep your horse comfortable all season long. At Kensington, we've been helping horse owners protect their animals since 1954, and we've learned that the most effective fly control starts with understanding how these pests live and breed.
In this guide, we'll walk through eight proven natural fly control strategies that work together as a comprehensive defense system.
Why natural fly control matters for horse owners
Flies aren't just annoying. They pose serious health risks that every horse owner should understand. Biting flies can transmit diseases like equine infectious anemia (EIA) and tularemia. House flies and face flies spread parasitic nematode larvae that cause summer sores, chronic wounds that refuse to heal. Some flies carry eyeworms that infect the glands and ducts around your horse's eyes.
Beyond disease transmission, constant fly harassment affects your horse's behavior and performance. The stomping, tail swishing, and general agitation burn energy that could go toward training or simply enjoying turnout time. Over time, excessive stomping can even damage hooves.
Chemical fly sprays have their place, but overuse comes with drawbacks. Many contain pyrethroids, organophosphates, or other synthetic pesticides that can irritate sensitive skin, contaminate water sources, and harm beneficial insects like pollinators. Flies can also develop resistance to chemicals over time, making treatments less effective.
Natural fly control takes a different approach. Instead of trying to kill every adult fly, you focus on breaking the life cycle, eliminating breeding grounds, and creating an environment where flies struggle to thrive. It's safer for your horse, better for the environment, and often more effective in the long run.
For a deeper dive into the specific diseases flies can transmit, read our article on the menace of flies and the diseases they can cause in horses.
Natural fly control tip 1: Master manure management
If you only implement one natural fly control strategy, make it this one. Manure management is the foundation of any effective fly control program because it targets the root of the problem: fly breeding grounds.
Flies require moist organic material to reproduce. A female house fly can lay 50 to 150 eggs every few days, and under ideal conditions, those eggs can hatch into adult flies in as little as two weeks. The entire cycle happens in fresh manure, soiled bedding, and damp organic debris.
Here's how to break that cycle:
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Remove manure at least twice per week from stalls, paddocks, and confinement areas. The University of Minnesota Extension recommends this frequency to stay ahead of the fly life cycle.
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Compost your manure rather than letting it sit in a pile. Flies prefer fresh manure over composted material, and the heat generated by composting kills fly larvae.
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Cover manure piles with a tarp to speed composting and prevent flies from accessing the material. This also prevents rain runoff that can contaminate water sources.
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Harrow or drag pastures regularly to break up manure piles. Spreading manure allows it to dry faster, making it far less attractive to flies.
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Keep manure piles away from barn areas. The farther you can locate composting areas from where your horses spend time, the better.
Timing matters. Start your manure management program before fly season begins. In regions with mild winters, that might mean February or March. Getting ahead of the first generation of flies prevents the population explosion that happens once temperatures rise.
Natural fly control tip 2: Eliminate standing water and improve drainage
Mosquitoes and many other flying insects need water to complete their life cycle. Mosquitoes can breed in standing water as shallow as half a teacup, which means even small puddles can become breeding grounds.
Walk your property and look for anything that collects water:
- Old tires, buckets, or containers left in pastures
- Clogged gutters and downspouts
- Low-lying areas that stay muddy after rain
- Leaky faucets and waterers
- Birdbaths that aren't refreshed regularly
- Flowerpots with saucers underneath
Fix leaky waterers and ensure gutters direct rainwater away from barn areas and paddocks. In high-traffic areas where mud is unavoidable, consider adding footing materials like finely crushed gravel (5/8 inch or less) or coarse sand. Three to six inches of footing material helps water drain through while keeping horses up out of the mud.
Pasture management also plays a role. Graze horses on higher, drier pastures early in the summer, and save lower, wetter areas for later in the season when they've had time to dry out. Wet pastures harbor mosquitoes, deer flies, horse flies, and biting midges.
Natural fly control tip 3: Harness the power of beneficial insects
Not all insects are pests. According to the Xerces Society, only about 2% of insects are considered pests, and many insects prey on each other. You can put this natural predator-prey relationship to work in your barn.
Fly predators, also known as parasitic wasps, are tiny gnat-sized insects that target fly pupae. They lay their eggs inside developing fly pupae, preventing the adult fly from ever emerging. These beneficial insects are nocturnal, don't sting or bite humans or animals, and are so small you'll barely notice them.
Research published in the Journal of Medical Entomology shows that parasitic wasps can reduce stable fly populations by 75-95% when used consistently. The key is regular releases throughout fly season.
Here's how to use them effectively:
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Release every 3-4 weeks starting early in the fly season, before populations explode.
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Place them strategically near breeding areas: manure piles, compost bins, and damp organic material.
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Don't use diatomaceous earth in the same areas where you release fly predators. While diatomaceous earth is a natural product that kills fly larvae by dehydrating them, it will also kill your beneficial insects.
Several companies sell fly predators by mail order, and they're easy to distribute around your property. Think of them as tiny livestock that work 24/7 to keep fly populations down.
Natural fly control tip 4: Encourage natural predators
Beyond beneficial insects, larger natural predators can make a significant dent in your fly population. Birds and bats are your allies in natural fly control.
Barn swallows and other insect-eating birds can consume thousands of insects per day. One adult barn swallow eats several thousand insects daily, which is comparable to using a bug zapper but without the electricity or noise. Other helpful species include violet-green swallows, tree swallows, bluebirds, purple martins, and cliff swallows.
You can encourage these birds to take up residence by:
- Installing nest boxes designed for the species common in your area
- Allowing horses to shed naturally in spring, leaving hair that swallows use for nesting material
- Avoiding the use of insecticides that could harm birds
Bats are another incredibly effective natural predator. A single bat can eat up to 600 mosquitoes per hour, which adds up to more than 5,000 insects per night. They also consume agricultural pests like corn borers, cutworm moths, and grasshoppers.
To attract bats, install bat houses on the southern exposure of your barn, a pole, or a tree. The ideal location is within a half-mile of a stream, lake, or wetland. Place bat houses by early April and be patient. It can take up to two years for a bat colony to discover and move into a new house.
One note of caution: because bats can carry rabies (like any warm-blooded animal), consult your veterinarian about vaccinating your horses against rabies if you have bats on your property.
Natural fly control tip 5: Use physical barriers for complete protection
Even with excellent environmental management, some flies will find your horse. That's where physical barriers come in. Fly masks, sheets, and boots provide immediate, chemical-free protection that complements your broader fly control program.
Fly masks protect the sensitive areas around your horse's eyes from face flies that feed on secretions. They're especially important for horses with light-colored skin or pale eyes that are more susceptible to sun damage and fly irritation. Look for masks that offer UV protection alongside fly defense. Our UViator CatchMask Fly Mask with 90% UV Protection combines fly protection with medical-grade UV blocking, making it ideal for horses with uveitis, pink skin, or pale eyes.
Fly sheets provide body coverage while allowing airflow to keep your horse cool. Research has shown that zebra-striped patterns can actually confuse horse flies and deer flies, reducing attacks. The stripes interfere with how these flies perceive color and movement.
Our Protective Fly Sheet with 73% UV Protection is made with our signature Textilene® fabric that's durable enough to last season after season. The open-weave design keeps flies off while preventing overheating.
Fly boots protect your horse's legs from stable flies that target lower limbs. They also reduce the constant stomping that can damage hooves over time. Our Fly Boots with Fleece Trim provide 73% UV protection along with fly defense.
Physical barriers work immediately, require no reapplication, and don't expose your horse to chemicals. They're the perfect finishing touch to a comprehensive natural fly control program. Learn more about why UV protection matters for horses and how it fits into your overall health plan.
Natural fly control tip 6: Create an unfavorable environment
Flies have preferences. Understanding what they like (and don't like) lets you make your barn and pastures less hospitable to them.
Keep barns dark when possible. Face flies, biting midges, and deer flies avoid darkened areas. Stabling horses before and during dusk can help them escape biting midges and mosquitoes, while keeping them inside during the hot part of the day provides relief from deer and horse flies.
Use fans for air circulation. Flies are weak flyers, and a steady breeze makes it difficult for them to land. Ceiling fans or strategically placed box fans create air movement that deters flies while keeping your horse cool. Just ensure fans are safely installed with cords and blades out of reach.
Install screens on doors and windows to keep flies out of feed rooms and tack areas where they might be attracted to grain or organic material.
Strategic pasture management also helps. Since different fly species prefer different conditions, rotating grazing areas and timing turnout can minimize exposure. Higher, drier pastures early in the season keep horses away from the wet areas where mosquitoes and biting flies breed.
Natural fly control tip 7: Deploy traps strategically
Traps can reduce adult fly populations, but placement is everything. The wrong location can actually make your fly problem worse.
Sticky traps are the simplest option. Fly paper ribbons, sticky tubes, and rolled sheets catch flies that happen to land on them. Hang them from barn ceilings, above doorways, or in areas where flies congregate. You'll need more than you think. Try hanging 10 or more ribbons in an average-sized barn. Replace them when they're full.
Bait traps use food or pheromone attractants dissolved in water to lure flies. The flies enter through small openings and drown. These traps work well, but here's the critical part: place them on the perimeter of your property, away from barn areas and horses.
The attractants in bait traps are smelly because they're designed to draw flies from a distance. If you place these traps near your barn, you'll attract flies toward your horses instead of away from them. Position them at the far edges of your property to intercept flies before they reach high-traffic areas.
DIY bait traps are easy to make. Punch holes in the lid of a large jar or plastic container, add a few pieces of raw hamburger or fish, and pour in a couple inches of water. The flies enter, can't escape, and drown.
Visual traps work for horse flies and deer flies, which are attracted to visual cues. These traps use dark shapes or colors to mimic animals, and when flies approach, they get caught on sticky surfaces or in containers. Place visual traps in sunny areas away from buildings so flies can see them clearly.
Natural fly control tip 8: Try natural repellents and dietary supplements
While environmental management should be your first line of defense, natural repellents can provide additional protection for your horse.
Essential oils have scientific backing as fly repellents. Research shows that citronella reduces horsefly landings by over 90%, while geraniol repels stable flies as effectively as DEET without the toxic effects. Other effective options include peppermint, lemongrass, eucalyptus, cedarwood, and rosemary oils.
You can make a simple DIY spray by mixing essential oils with water. A basic recipe combines 2 cups of water with 20-30 drops of essential oils (citronella, eucalyptus, and lavender work well together). Shake before each use and apply lightly to your horse's coat.
Apple cider vinegar can be used both topically and as a dietary supplement. Diluted with water (equal parts), it makes a coat spray that some flies find unappealing. Added to drinking water (start with a small amount and increase gradually), it may make your horse's blood less attractive to biting insects. However, some horses reject the taste, so this doesn't work for every animal.
Garlic supplements are popular among horse owners, with the theory that garlic creates an odor in sweat that repels flies. The evidence is mixed, and some horses won't eat enough garlic to make a difference due to the strong taste. If you try garlic, monitor your horse's consumption and watch for any digestive upset.
Pine Sol solution is an old barn trick. Mix equal parts Pine Sol and water in a watering can and sprinkle it in barn aisles or grooming areas. You can also spray it on walls and doors. The pine scent helps deter flies from congregating in these areas.
Remember that natural repellents typically need more frequent reapplication than chemical sprays, especially after your horse sweats or gets wet.
When to start your natural fly control program
Timing is everything in fly control. The goal is to get ahead of the first generation of flies before they have a chance to multiply.
Start in early spring, before you see significant fly activity. In regions with mild winters, this might mean late February or March. In colder climates, aim for when daytime temperatures consistently reach 50-60°F. This is when overwintering fly pupae begin to emerge.
Release fly predators before the first flies appear. If you wait until you have a fly problem, you're already behind.
Begin manure management immediately and maintain it consistently throughout the season. Skipping even a week can allow fly populations to rebound.
Put up physical barriers like fly masks and sheets as soon as flies become active. Don't wait until your horse is miserable.
Monitor and adjust throughout the season. Keep notes on what works and what doesn't so you can refine your approach next year. Every property is different, and it may take a season or two to find the right combination of strategies for your situation.
Protect your horse naturally with Kensington
Natural fly control isn't about finding one magic solution. It's about combining multiple strategies that work together: eliminating breeding grounds, encouraging natural predators, creating an unfavorable environment, and providing physical protection for your horse.
At Kensington, we believe in this integrated approach. Since 1954, we've been manufacturing protective gear that helps horse owners keep their animals comfortable and healthy without relying solely on chemicals. Our fly masks, sheets, and boots are made with Textilene® fabric that provides durable, long-lasting protection season after season.
Physical barriers are the chemical-free finishing touch to any natural fly control program. They work immediately, protect sensitive areas like eyes and legs, and can be used alongside any of the environmental strategies we've covered.
All Kensington products are backed by our lifetime guarantee because we believe in building gear that lasts. When you're ready to add physical protection to your natural fly control program, explore our complete line of fly protection gear.
Frequently asked questions about natural fly control tips for horse owners
Q1: What is the most effective natural fly control tip for horse owners with limited time?
A: If you can only do one thing, focus on manure management. Removing manure at least twice per week from stalls and paddocks breaks the fly life cycle at its source. This single practice will have more impact than any other natural method.
Q2: How long does it take to see results from natural fly control tips for horse owners?
A: Environmental strategies like manure management and water elimination show results within 2-3 weeks as you interrupt the fly breeding cycle. Beneficial insects like fly predators need 3-4 weeks to establish and begin reducing populations. Physical barriers like fly masks and sheets provide immediate protection.
Q3: Are natural fly control tips for horse owners as effective as chemical sprays?
A: Natural methods work differently than chemicals. While sprays kill adult flies on contact, natural methods focus on preventing flies from breeding in the first place. A comprehensive natural program often provides better long-term results than relying solely on sprays, and without the drawbacks of chemical resistance or environmental contamination.
Q4: Can I use natural fly control tips for horse owners alongside chemical products?
A: Yes, many horse owners use an integrated approach. You might rely primarily on natural methods while keeping chemical sprays on hand for severe situations or for horses with specific medical needs. Just avoid using insecticides in the same areas where you've released beneficial insects, as the chemicals will kill them.
Q5: What natural fly control tips for horse owners work best for sensitive horses with allergies?
A: For horses with sensitive skin or allergies, focus on physical barriers like fly masks and sheets, which provide protection without any topical products. Environmental management (manure control, water elimination) also helps without exposing your horse to potential irritants. If using essential oil sprays, test a small area first and watch for reactions.
Q6: How much does it cost to implement natural fly control tips for horse owners?
A: Many natural methods are low-cost or free. Manure management requires time but no special products. Fly predators cost approximately $20-30 per month for an average-sized barn. Physical barriers like fly masks and sheets are an upfront investment but last multiple seasons with proper care. Overall, natural fly control is often comparable to or less expensive than buying chemical sprays throughout the season.